Biking the C&O and GAP Trail

Some of you have been following along on this journey through social media, but I wanted to put a record of this trip here. I biked the old Chesapeake and Ohio (C&O) Canal and the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP), which follows old railroad lines from the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, Pittsburgh and Lake Erie Railroad, Union Railroad, and Western Maryland Railway. These trails are mostly gravel, although some parts are paved near the cities, and they are relatively flat or have very gradual elevation increases or decreases. Rail trails like this are so much less stressful than the highway rides I’ve done in the past. Some days, the riding was so smooth I had entire phone calls with friends and family while biking. I never really thought I’d get into long-distance bike touring, but it’s really a delightful way to see the world. Fast enough to actually see lots of places, but slow enough to notice what’s happening around you. One of my favorite part of these trails was the incredible amount of wildlife along the trail that I got to see — owls, herons, snakes, deer, turtles, groundhogs, and more.

What a wonderful day of wildlife along the C&O Trail. I saw 2 owls, at least 5 great blue herons, 1 snake, 1 great heron, at least 4 deer, and a couple woodpeckers. 🚲 58 miles

Delicious breakfast followed by lovely forest riding before I stopped in beautiful and historic Harper’s Ferry. Took a hilly, hot detour to the Civil War battlefield of Antietam before heading back for a lovely afternoon along the Potomac. 🚲 51 miles

Slow, steady uphill grind today on muddy, gravel trails. Stopped to see Fort Frederick (built for the French and Indian War), a cement factory, as well as admiring all the tilted rock layers and cool reflections in the water. Lots and lots of deer today and one adorable turtle. 🚲 46 miles

After last night’s rain, it was a muddy mess of a ride this morning, but 2 turtles came out to play and I saw over 10 deer. The walk through the pitch black Paw Paw Tunnel was surreal. Finished up the C&O Trail at the 184.5 mile marker in Cumberland and then started a long grueling climb to Frostburg. Cool sculptures on the way into town but then I found a black widow in my shoe. Life is always exciting on trail. Onwards to the Great Allegheny Passage. 🚲 64 miles

Foggy climb crossing the Mason-Dixon Line up the rest of the hill. Top of the hill is the Eastern Continental Divide and all the water on this side empties into the Gulf of Mexico. It was a long day of tunnels and waterfalls and an afternoon of riding in the rain. Very pretty. Very wet. 🚲 58 miles

Highlight of the day was obviously my trip to Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater but then everything started going downhill. I got a flat on my front tire and fixed it, but then after a nice ride through lots of waterfalls I arrived in town and got a flat on my back tire 2 blocks from a bike shop (that was unfortunately closed). Fixed it and started onwards to my original stop for the night before I got another flat and realized that my tire wall had actually busted. I was out of patches and out of tubes and very unsure about my bike making it another ten miles, so back to Connellsville I went since I knew there was a bike shop here. Found a cute B&B for the night and life is good. You never know what’s going to happen on a bike trip and it’s best to roll with the punches. It’ll be a long day of riding tomorrow after the bike shop opens at 11am, but for now I’m going to enjoy the cozy, lazy morning of sleeping in. 🚲 34 miles 

Spent my morning enjoying this working miniature railroad reproduction of the town inside a local canteen. I got a super late start after I bought my new tire and then still ended up with another flat 20 miles out. Got it fixed up and ready to go with the help of another biker and off I went. Plenty of waterfalls, lots of whimsy, and some cute groundhogs. Finally made it to the end of the GAP Trail in Pittsburgh at 8pm! So grateful to be able to do these intense and beautiful rides. 🚲 61 miles 

Empire State Trail

Buffalo to Brooklyn: Erie Canal Trail + Hudson Valley Trail

September 2023 – 762 miles

map of New York state with red dots showing stops along the way

Day 1: Buffalo Airport to Buffalo City

After flying a red eye across the country, I managed to assemble my bicycle in the airport. Yucky traffic and roads got me to the awesome Frank Lloyd Wright Martin House before I needed a long afternoon nap. 15 miles 🚲 

Day 2: Buffalo to Niagara Falls

Crossed over the Peace Bridge and cycled along a nice bike path next to the Niagara River until I got to the falls, which really are better from the Canadian side. 25 miles 🚲 

Day 3: Niagara Falls to Middleport

Cycled over the Rainbow Bridge and toured the American side of the falls before biking to the Herschell Carrousel Factory Museum. (There’s a high probability your local favorite carousel was carved in the town of Tonawanda.) Finally made it onto the Erie Canal Trail and learned all about how they operated the locks. 42 miles 🚲

Day 4: Middleport to Rochester

The first part of today there was lots and lots of corn, reminding me very much of the Midwest. Today’s interesting trail feature was the only road that goes underneath the Erie Canal. Boba Count = 1 and that sunset is the view from my campsite right next to a lock. 55 miles 🚲

Day 5: Rochester to Lyons

This morning the nice Puerto Rican lock keeper gave me some chocolate sandwich wafers after sharing his life story. Figured I’ve been on my bike too long so I spent the morning in a kayak on the Erie Canal! Currently camping behind a fire department next to a biker bar. 3 miles 🛶 35 miles 🚲

Day 6: Lyons to Montezuma

Took a tour this morning and learned all about the peppermint oil business at the turn of the century. Then headed off the main trail on a pilgrimage to the birthplace of women’s suffrage in Seneca Falls. So proud to be able to vote and be a part of the legacy of these women and men who fought to empower more people through the ballot box. 43 miles 🚲

Day 7: Montezuma to Fayetteville

Chilly, rainy day of biking but I made it through one week!!! Today was made a little better by all the gorgeous fall colors on the trail. I took a long winding detour around Onondaga Lake to visit a Salt Museum near Syracuse. Salt used to be a huge industry that paid for nearly half the Erie Canal through tolls. The brine they used to make the salt came from glacial melt dissolving halite that they then pumped up to the surface. 55 miles 🚲

Day 8: Fayetteville to Herkimer

Lots of time right next to the canal today which made for relatively flat and fast riding, which was good because it was a looooooong day. First Erie Canal on top and the current version of the Erie Canal on the bottom plus some flowers because sometimes my butt needed a break. 😊 77 miles 🚲

Day 9: Herkimer

Rest day. Hung out next to a creek and mined for some Herkimer “diamonds” (quartz crystals) and a stromatolite fossil across the street. My legs are very thankful. Back to the grind tomorrow. 0 miles 🚲

Day 10: Herkimer to Amsterdam

It was a bit hard to get myself back moving again this morning, but I did it. Stopped and saw the Arkell Museum (favorite painting was the Winslow Homer pumpkin piece) and had relatively smooth off-road riding much of the day. Tonight I’m staying in a freaking castle just because I can. 🏰 59 miles 🚲

Day 11: Amsterdam to Waterford

Beautiful weather with a nice lunch stop in Schenectady. It’s my last day on the Erie Canal. I’m camping tonight next to Lock 2. Tomorrow I turn south towards New York City through the Hudson Valley. 39 miles 🚲

Day 12: Waterford to Hudson

Headed out early with a short detour to see the State Capitol Building in Albany. The bike route today follows an old electric train route between Albany and Hudson. But soon after I left Albany, the rain just started to come down and it was relentless. After a few hours of being completely soaked (even with all my cool waterproof gear) I caved and got a hotel to dry out all my stuff. 51 miles 🚲

Day 13: Hudson to Poughkeepsie

Chilly, rainy, windy morning on roads with fast moving traffic had me doubting my life choices. My right shoe has been slowly coming apart and today I couldn’t click out properly because of it and ended up falling over on a hill. I got just one good bruise out of it. Then the rain stopped and I had a glorious afternoon of rail trail riding through forests changing colors and losing their leaves. Also two big bridge crossings over the Hudson today. (And I got some ShoeGoo so I’m working on a shoe fix for the last couple days.) 65 miles 🚲

Day 14: Poughkeepsie to Briarcliff Manor

The Duchess Rail Trail is, in fact, as beautiful as everyone said it would be. See that gorgeous scene up top, wouldn’t you stop to take a photo? Well I did and when I stopped the bottom half my shoe got stuck in the pedal and the top half came off. That’s right. All my ShoeGoo action from last night didn’t help much. (Apparently you gotta wait at least 24 hours) I’ve had these shoes for over a decade so I think I’m going to let them go in peace. They’ve lived a good life. In the meantime, I’m rocking sneakers and I’ve got one day to go. Boba Count = 2. 62 miles 🚲

Day 15: Briarcliff Manor to BROOKLYN!!!

I made it! And I saw some friends including Emily, Anand & Jena. So grateful to all the people I met along the way and so thankful that my body and mind are healing. I said goodbye to some shoes and hello to a bunch of beautiful bruises and saddle sores. But I didn’t give up and I made it to NYC, biked over the Brooklyn Bridge, and couldn’t be happier. 49 miles 🚲 Total Miles = 762!